How to Use a Tachymeter Like a 1960s Racer: A Real-World Guide

There’s a certain feeling you get behind the wheel of a classic British sports car. It’s the smell of leather and petrol, the mechanical feedback through the wooden steering wheel, the direct connection to the road. Many of us bought our chronographs for that very same reason: to own a piece of that analogue, pre-digital world. Yet, for most, the most prominent feature of that racing heritage—the tachymeter scale circling the dial—remains a mystery, a set of numbers as unused as the top end of a speedometer on the M25.

The common advice treats it like a dry maths problem, always using the example of a single car on a mile-long track. It’s technically correct, but it misses the point entirely. The tachymeter wasn’t just for official lap times at Silverstone; it was a driver’s sixth sense, a quick and intuitive tool for understanding the relationship between time, distance, and speed in the real world. It was about tangible measurement, not abstract data. The key is to start the chronograph as you pass a starting marker and stop it as you pass an ending marker precisely one unit of distance away (a mile post on the motorway, a kilometre marker on a Park Run).

But what if the true purpose of this complication today isn’t just to measure speed, but to recapture a lost connection with the mechanical world? This guide is about finding the analogue soul of your watch. We will explore the critical rules for keeping your machine safe, the fine mechanics that create its satisfying feel, and how to use its functions in ways that bring that 1960s racing spirit into your modern life. We’ll show you how to make that scale work for you, not just on a fantasy racetrack, but on your daily commute through London.

This article provides a complete circuit, from the essential user warnings to the finer points of haute horlogerie. The following summary outlines the key sections we’ll navigate to master your chronograph’s capabilities.

Why Using Chronograph Pushers Underwater Is a Fatal Error for Your Watch?

Before we even get to the glamour of timing, we must start with the most important rule of ownership: respecting the machine. A chronograph is a precision instrument, not a submarine. Its greatest vulnerability is water. While the case itself might be sealed, a chronograph has multiple points of potential failure: the crown, the two pushers, the crystal, and the case back gasket. That’s at least five potential entry points for water.

The gaskets that create these seals are designed to work under static pressure. The moment you activate a pusher or turn the crown underwater, you break that seal. Water is forced inside by the external pressure, and the damage can be catastrophic, leading to a rusty movement and a costly repair bill. It’s crucial to understand what water resistance ratings actually mean. As clarified by UK watch specialists, a “30 metres” rating does not mean you can dive 30 metres deep; it signifies resistance to splashes or rain only.

This warning from watch experts should be committed to memory. As the specialists at Bucherer point out, it’s a non-negotiable aspect of watch care:

Never turn the bezel, adjust the crown, or push the pushers while underwater as this will break the seal of the gasket, leaving the watch open for water to enter.

– Bucherer Watch Experts, Tourneau Watch Education Guide

Think of it like an engine: you wouldn’t pour water into the oil filler cap. Treating your watch with the same mechanical respect is the first step to a lifetime of reliable service. True appreciation begins with understanding a machine’s limits.

Column Wheel vs Cam Actuation: Which Chronograph Feel Justifies the Price?

Once you’ve mastered how to protect your watch, you can begin to appreciate what’s happening inside. When you press that start pusher, you’re engaging a complex miniature engine. The quality of that engagement—the ‘click’ and the smooth start of the seconds hand—is largely determined by its internal architecture: either a column wheel or a cam-actuated system. A cam system is robust and cost-effective to produce, but the pusher action can feel stiff or clunky. The column wheel, however, is the mark of a more refined movement.

As you can see in the intricate mechanism above, the column wheel is a small, castle-like turret that controls the start, stop, and reset functions. Operating it provides a much smoother, more precise mechanical feedback. This tactile superiority is why it’s a hallmark of high-end watchmaking. It’s more complex to manufacture and assemble, which directly impacts the price, but for enthusiasts, the feel is worth it.

In the UK, this appreciation for superior mechanical feel is deeply ingrained, especially within the motorsport community. Brands like TAG Heuer have built their reputation here by emphasising the column wheel in their Carrera line. For a British enthusiast, the crisp, positive action is reminiscent of a well-engineered gear change in a classic car. It’s not just a function; it’s part of the experience, a connection to a standard of quality that justifies the premium. It’s part of the practical art of horology.

When Is a Flyback Chronograph Actually Useful for Timing Multiple Events?

Building on that satisfying mechanical action, some chronographs offer an even more advanced function: the flyback, or “retour-en-vol.” With a standard chronograph, timing consecutive events requires three pusher actions: stop, reset, and start again. A flyback chronograph combines all three into a single press of the reset button. The seconds hand ‘flies back’ to zero and instantly restarts, allowing for immediate timing of the next leg or lap without any delay.

While originally designed for pilots navigating by map and compass, this function has surprisingly practical applications in modern British life. It’s about efficiency and precision when timing back-to-back events. Forget the racetrack for a moment and consider these real-world scenarios where a flyback proves its worth:

• Optimising a London Underground Commute: Start the chronograph as your train leaves Bank station. When you arrive at Oxford Circus, one press of the flyback button resets and restarts the timer for your next leg on the Victoria line. You can instantly compare segment times to find the fastest route through different interchanges.
• Timing Park Run Splits: For runners in any of the UK’s hundreds of Park Runs, a flyback is ideal. As you pass each kilometre marker, a single press gives you an instant reset, allowing for precise lap-by-lap timing to manage your pace without breaking stride.
• Cooking Multiple Dishes: In the kitchen, a flyback allows you to time the searing of a steak, and with one press, immediately start timing the roasting of vegetables, ensuring everything is perfectly cooked and ready at the same time.

The flyback complication transforms the chronograph from a simple stopwatch into a dynamic tool for managing sequential events. It’s a perfect example of how a feature born from professional necessity finds a new, practical life for the modern enthusiast.

How to Read Chronograph Sub-Dials Without Getting Confused?

Now that we’ve covered advanced functions, let’s get back to the fundamentals: reading the information your watch provides. The main, sweeping seconds hand is used for the chronograph timing and the tachymeter scale, but the elapsed time is recorded on the smaller sub-dials. Getting confused by them is a common hurdle. The key is understanding that each sub-dial has a specific job: counting seconds, minutes, or hours.

The layout of these dials can vary, but most fall into a few common patterns. The table below breaks down the most typical arrangements, helping you identify what each dial on your watch is tracking. This is essential before you can even begin to use the tachymeter function, which relies on a timing event that falls within the valid measurement window of 7.2 to 60 seconds.

Common Chronograph Sub-Dial Layouts

Layout Type	Position	Function	Typical Reading
Tri-Compax (3-6-9)	3 o’clock	30-minute counter	Elapsed minutes
	6 o’clock	12-hour counter	Elapsed hours
	9 o’clock	Running seconds	Continuous seconds
Bi-Compax (6-9-12)	6 o’clock	12-hour counter	Elapsed hours
	9 o’clock	Running seconds	Continuous seconds
	12 o’clock	30-minute counter	Elapsed minutes

The most important dial to identify is the running seconds. This is the one that moves continuously, whether the chronograph is running or not. It tells you the watch is operational. The other two dials only activate when you start the chronograph. To read the elapsed time, you first look at the hour counter, then the minute counter, and finally the main chronograph seconds hand. It’s a simple process once you know the specific job of each dial.

Does Leaving the Chronograph Running Drain Your Power Reserve Faster?

A question we often hear in the paddock is whether running the chronograph continuously will harm the watch or significantly affect its performance. The short answer is yes, it will drain your power reserve faster, but no, it won’t typically cause mechanical harm in a modern, well-serviced watch. Think of it like driving a car; turning on the air conditioning puts an extra load on the engine and consumes more fuel. The same principle applies here.

Engaging the chronograph brings dozens of extra wheels, levers, and springs into motion. This additional mechanical work requires more energy from the mainspring. Studies based on typical automatic movements show that leaving the chronograph running can lead to a 15-20% reduction in power reserve. So, a watch that normally runs for 42 hours might only last for around 34-36 hours with the chronograph engaged.

While some purists argue that the extra wear and tear on components could theoretically shorten service intervals, most modern chronographs are built to handle it. The larger concern is simply the reduced autonomy. If you rely on your watch’s power reserve to get you through the weekend, it’s best practice to only run the chronograph when you are actively timing something. It’s a tool to be used, not a feature to be left on display. Using it with intention is part of the practical art of owning a fine mechanical timepiece.

What Is the Difference Between a Chronograph and a Certified Chronometer?

Now that we’ve covered the practical aspects of using your watch, it’s time to clarify two of the most frequently confused terms in horology: “Chronograph” and “Chronometer.” They sound similar, but they refer to completely different things. Misunderstanding them is like confusing an engine’s horsepower with its fuel efficiency. One is about function, the other about performance.

A chronograph is a watch with a stopwatch function. It’s a complication—an additional feature beyond telling the time. It’s the mechanism with the pushers and sub-dials that we’ve been discussing, which allows you to measure elapsed time. The tachymeter scale is a feature often paired with a chronograph to add another layer of functionality. As watch expert Teddy Baldassarre explains, it’s fundamentally a calculator built into the watch, stating “Essentially, a tachymeter is a numerical scale… used… to measure an object’s speed over a predetermined distance.”

A chronometer, on the other hand, is a certification of accuracy. It is not a function. A watch (which may or may not be a chronograph) earns the title “chronometer” only after its movement has passed rigorous precision tests over 15 days, conducted by an official independent body like the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC). This certification guarantees that the watch performs within a strict tolerance of -4 to +6 seconds per day, regardless of position or temperature. While a tachymeter helps you measure speed over a mile, a chronometer certification ensures the time it’s measuring is exceptionally accurate.

So, a watch can be a chronograph, a chronometer, both, or neither. A simple, time-only Rolex can be a chronometer, while a complex chronograph might not be. Owning a watch that is *both* means you have a highly accurate timepiece that also possesses a stopwatch function—the best of both worlds.

Which Watch Complications Actually Add Value to Your Daily Routine?

We’ve established the technical definitions, but the real question is, do these intricate complications add genuine value to our lives away from the racetrack? In an age of smartphones, is there a practical purpose for a mechanical tachymeter or a GMT hand? The answer, particularly in a bustling urban environment like London, is a resounding yes—though sometimes in unexpected ways.

A study of London professionals revealed a fascinating hierarchy of usefulness. Unsurprisingly, GMT functions were highly valued for tracking time zones during international business calls. Chronographs were frequently used for practical, everyday timing, like measuring journey times on the Tube to find the most efficient route. But the tachymeter held a unique position. While it was the least *practically* used complication for its intended purpose, it was reported to have significant social value as a conversation starter in business and social settings. It signals an appreciation for engineering and detail that resonates in professional circles.

This tells us that “value” isn’t purely functional. The value of a complication lies in a combination of three things:

1. Practical Utility: Does it solve a real-world problem, like timing your commute?
2. Intellectual Engagement: Does it satisfy a curiosity, like calculating your average speed on a motorway journey?
3. Emotional and Social Resonance: Does it connect you to a heritage (like motorsport) or project a certain image of connoisseurship?

A complication like a tachymeter delivers on all three fronts. It has a practical, if niche, function; it provides a satisfying intellectual puzzle; and it carries a powerful connection to a golden age of analogue engineering. Its value is not just in what it does, but in what it represents.

How to Distinguish True Haute Horlogerie from Mass-Produced Luxury?

We’ve journeyed from practical use to the intricate mechanics inside your watch. The final step is to learn how to distinguish a well-made luxury watch from a piece of true “haute horlogerie,” or high watchmaking. It’s the difference between a mass-produced Jaguar and a hand-built Aston Martin. Both are luxury cars, but one is a product of industrial scale, the other a work of art. In watchmaking, this distinction comes down to the level of hand-finishing, exclusivity, and innovation within the movement.

Mass-produced luxury watches often use excellent, reliable base movements from suppliers like ETA or Sellita, which are then modified and decorated by the brand. True haute horlogerie, however, is defined by an almost obsessive commitment to in-house craftsmanship. This involves designing, manufacturing, and hand-assembling movements from the ground up. It’s a world where production is measured in dozens, not thousands, and where a single watchmaker may assemble an entire timepiece from start to finish. This dedication to craft is what separates the good from the sublime.

To the untrained eye, two expensive watches might look similar. But for the discerning enthusiast, the signs of true high-end craftsmanship are unmistakable if you know where to look. This checklist will help you identify the markers of genuine haute horlogerie, with references that will resonate with any British connoisseur.

Ultimately, appreciating haute horlogerie is about recognising that the value is not just in the brand name, but in the hundreds of hours of human skill invested in a single, tiny machine. It’s the pinnacle of the mechanical world we, as enthusiasts, so deeply admire.

Now, go out and use your watch. Time your train journey, calculate your average speed on the A40, feel the satisfying click of the pushers. Connect with the analogue soul on your wrist and bring a piece of racing history into your everyday life.